The Patagonia Connection
Vail Native's Eric Eves Wanderlust took him to the ends of the earth
Photos courtesy of Eric Eves
Nature endowed Patagonia with diverse and breathtaking natural features such as the jagged peaks of the Andes, massive ice fields, lush valleys, vast pampas and sub-tropical islands, to name but a few.
Backpacking alone through southern Chile at age 16, Eric Eves had plenty of time to think about his future. As he explored mystical forests, crossed frothy rivers and deep gorges, climbed smoking volcanoes, and ascended jagged Andean peaks, one thought crystallized for the young adventurer.
He knew his destiny lay in the expansive land of Patagonia and that he wanted to share it with others.
Now 29, the Vail native has realized his dream and launched Adventura Patagonia, a tour company that opens to travelers the hidden treasure chest of this enchanting, wild region of South America. 
Patagonia, once its own kingdom, covers the southern third of South America encompassing 1.7 million square kilometers of southern Chile and Argentina and spanning from the Pacific to the Atlantic.
Northern Patagonia includes peaks of the great Andes Mountains, separated by deep, lush valleys where rollicking gem-colored rivers connect countless azure lakes brimming with trout.
In eastern Patagonia, wide deserted valleys support vast cattle ranches where gauchos tend large herds of cattle and sheep, raised and fattened on the pampas grass.
The western edge of Patagonia is an archipelago of uninhabited sub-tropical islands, accessed only by waterways dotted with cormorant colonies and alive with dolphins, penguins and myriad sea life.
On the southern mainland, the pampas host’s unusual creatures, ostrich-like rheas and guanacos (a smaller, quicker llama), and thousands of species of birds, from flamingos to condors.
Here, the dramatic Andes send granite towers soaring a thousand meters above the windswept plains.
Giant, tumbled ice fields stretch for hundreds of kilometers and glaciers grind and cut relentlessly from the mountains to the ocean.
Scattered trees, twisted and flat-topped from relentless winds are tenacious survivors here, as rugged as the hearty stock of people who inhabit this stark yet beautiful land.
Most are descendents from English and Germans who settled vast estancias here 150 years ago during land grant colonization of Southern Patagonia.
Ask Eric Eves about this land of wonder and abundant recreational opportunities and he erupts like a Chilean volcano, overflowing with passion and enthusiasm for the place, its people and culture.
He also displays a maturity beyond his years in his sensitivity about Patagonia and how tourism can be both a boon and a plague to people and their land if not introduced in a sustainable way.
This is something he knows about, having grown up in Vail.
Eves is part of the first true generation of Vailites, born and raised here, cutting their teeth on baby back-pack frames as their parents carried them about the mountains on foot or on skis.
Eric’s parents came to Vail 1971, built a business (Eves Print Shop, now EPS Design & Print in Edwards) and a family, instilling in their three children a love of the mountains and respect for the gift of a pristine environment.
Eric discovered his love for travel when, at 14, he went to China with the Vail International Hockey Team.
Within two years he badgered his parents into allowing him to study abroad in Chile.
The high school sophomore floundered for six weeks in an all-Spanish school, then packed his backpack and set out to see the country.
It was during that solo trip that Eves’ epiphany occurred.
“It was so liberating to know I could survive and find adventure on my own. I already appreciated mountains, but to find country so wild and untouched was really exciting.
I grew up hearing stories of early days in Vail and Colorado — then I found places in Chile and Patagonia that were like our mountains 60 years ago.
It seemed like a fairy-tale place and I knew I wanted to share it with others,” recalls Eves. So he returned to the States and began to pursue his dream.
As a tourism and recreation major at Colorado State University, Eves continued traveling to Chile, exploring new places, expanding his network, and gaining a passion for the concepts of ecotourism before the word or the industry even existed.
Eventually, he zeroed in on a particularly beautiful spot in the Lake District, a private bio-preserve called Huilo Huilo, 150,000 acres of temperate rain forest, mountains, lakes, hot springs, volcanoes, and waterfalls.
In the neighboring village of Neltume, Eves bought his first home, a run-down cabin he refurbished with the help of lifelong friends from Vail.
He invested financially in the bio-preserve, purchasing a beautiful wooded lot for his future guest lodge.
More importantly, he invested his heart in Neltume, a town struggling to move from a fading logging economy to one of tourism.
In Neltume, Eves saw an opportunity to help the people build a bridge to the future.
He taught English, helped establish a volunteer fire department, and began planning his own ecological tourism company based in Huilo Huilo and Vail.
When stateside he studied hard, learned about business through property management and real estate jobs and continued to lay the groundwork for his future.
Finally, in the spring of 2008, Eves launched Adventura Patagonia and began taking clients to Patagonia.
“This was the culmination of a life’s dream,” beams Eves. “Patagonia is such a vast, expansive land that it’s really impossible to get a feel for all of it without having an experienced guide.
I have set up the tours based on my extensive network, and knowledge of sensitive ecosystems and cultures. I’m proud that Adventura Patagonia has exclusive access to many of the destinations and guided side-trips I offer.”
Eves custom-designs his excursions to include adventure at every level — environmental, recreational and cultural — always seeking to balance the impact of tourism with the benefits of exposure and education about Patagonia’s people and resources.
His tours typically include three to six Patagonia destinations depending on the client’s budget, time, flexibility and interests. To maintain quality control, he leads the small groups himself.
He also offers custom trip planning for every kind of adventurer and every budget.
The ideal way to really get a feel for the diversity of Patagonia, suggests Eves, is to plan three weeks, four is better, and take his grand circle tour.
The Destinations
Exotic Adventures Await
Huilo Huilo
Privately owned by Chilean families, Huilo Huilo was recently declared a World Biosphere Preserve by UNESCO for its biodiversity.
There are rain forests, volcanoes, waterfalls and mountains to explore.
Raft tumbling rivers that offer everything from easy family floats to raucous rapids and bountiful mountain lakes brim with fish.
Mountain bike, hike, horseback ride, ski a volcano or glide through layers of green on South America’s longest and highest, forested canopy zip-line. 
The wide range of accommodations include the volcano-shaped Montana Magica Hotel and the tree house-inspired Baobab Hotel as well as Bed & Breakfasts.
Argentine Lake District
With lakes and volcanoes dotting picturesque national parks, the Argentine side of the Lake District offers postcard scenery.
Experience remote wilderness and sophisticated shopping and dining the same day. St. Martin, Villa La Angostura and Bariloche are known for their world-class skiing, their museums, extensive shopping, incredible steak dinners and delicious chocolate.
The wilderness is only a short jaunt from the resort towns and Adventura Patagonia caters to all whims, with boat trips, bike tours, guided fly-fishing, superb shopping and dining tips, and exclusive, private accommodations.
The Great Futaleufu River
Adventura Patagonia easily links whitewater enthusiasts to the remote and mighty Futaleufu River, one of the largest undammed rivers in the world.
A kayaker’s paradise, the “Fu” explodes down narrow chasms and plunges through deep forests, ranging from Class III to Class V rapids in all its runnable sections.
Here, Expediciones Chile is Eves’ connection for high quality rafting and perhaps the sweetest kayaking outpost on the planet.
Run by former U.S. Olympic kayaker, Chris Spelius, Ex Chile, also provides alternative activities for those less inclined toward whitewater thrills — from bicycle and horseback treks to five-day sea-kayak excursions.
Isla Jechica
Adventura Patagonia navigates its clients through the Chilean archipelago aboard the 57-foot Nautiluca motor yacht, bound for tiny Isla Jechica.
The trip passes by giant fjords and glacial rivers tumbling to the sea, pods of whales and colonies of sea lions and penguins.
Sea kayak Jechica’s inlets and shores in the company of playful dolphins, penguins and cormorants before hiking through ancient forests and spongy marshes. Then, retreat to a private cabin tucked into the forest among blooming fuchsia.
Southern Patagonia
Torres del Paine National Park explodes upward from the pampas, its stone mountains blanketed with blue glaciers and surrounded by milky-turquoise glacial lakes.
Follow guides who know some of the best-kept secrets of southern Patagonia, beyond the well-trodden hikes within Torres del Paine National Park.
Puerto Natales serves as a low-key gateway for exploring southern Patagonia. Hotel Remota, a Conde Naste Traveler magazine’s
“Hot Hotel of 2006,” has the area’s most knowledgeable guides, offering mountain biking, boating, horseback riding and trekking.
For the more independent traveler, Adventura Patagonia arranges good Bed & Breakfast accommodations in Puerto Natales and connects adventurous travelers with remote whale and penguin watching excursions.
“The destinations of the circle tour are amazing, but so is everything in between,” advises Eves. “How you move about the country and having a knowledgeable guide are what make the circle tour easy, special and unique.”
Today, still living between the two worlds of Vail and Patagonia, Eves reflects his own sentiments when he tells his clients: “The only difficult thing about going to Patagonia is having to leave it.”
Learn more about Adventura Patagonia: www.adventurapatagonia.com; P.O. Box 1860, Edwards, CO 81632; 970-331-8617.
Freelancer Susie Kincade is a 28 year resident of the valley, and life-long adventurer. Contact her at susikin@centurytel.net
